Coda alla Vaccinara
Rome, Italy
Coda alla vaccinara is a slow-cooked Roman dish made with oxtail and vegetables, traditionally cooked until the meat becomes exceptionally tender. The sauce is rich and deeply flavoured, with celery playing an important role alongside the meat and other aromatics.
This is very different from Rome's better-known pasta dishes. It belongs to the city's older tradition of turning inexpensive cuts into substantial meals, and it gives visitors a glimpse of the more rustic side of Roman cooking. It is a dish for a leisurely meal rather than a quick bite, particularly if you're curious about the food traditions behind modern Roman cuisine.
Why locals eat it
Coda alla vaccinara is closely connected with Rome's historic “fifth quarter” tradition, which made use of offal and less-prized cuts that were once associated with workers at the city's slaughterhouse. Turismo Roma links this style of cooking particularly with Testaccio and the area's former slaughterhouse, where these ingredients became an important part of local food culture.
Local tip
Order this when you're looking for a traditional Roman dish rather than the city's famous pasta classics. The meat should be very tender from the long cooking process, and celery is an important part of the traditional flavour profile. Because it is a rich dish, it works particularly well as the main event of a slower meal.
Typically made with
Oxtail, Celery, Tomato, Pancetta, Red wine, Cocoa powder, Pine nuts. Recipes vary — always check with the vendor if you have allergies.