Hamo Ryori
Kyoto, Japan
Hamo ryori features pike conger, a fish with fine bones that require the specialist knife technique called hone-giri. The fish may be blanched, grilled or simmered, with plum, soy or seasonal vegetables adding contrast to its delicate texture.
Hamo is strongly associated with Kyoto’s summer cuisine because the fish could reach the inland capital alive from the coast. The seasonal association remains important, especially in refined menus, but preparation differs between restaurants and courses.
Why locals eat it
Kyoto’s summer dining calendar gives hamo a distinctive cultural role, especially in seasonal kaiseki and festival meals. The fish is not unique to Kyoto, but the city’s chefs developed careful ways to make its fine bones edible and present it as a refined seasonal ingredient.
Local tip
Ask which preparation is being served and whether the bones have been fully cut through. Plum sauce suits blanched hamo, while grilled versions are richer and more smoky.
Typically made with
pike conger eel, plum paste, soy sauce, mirin, dashi. Recipes vary — always check with the vendor if you have allergies.